FASCHINGSKRAPFEN: CARNIVAL JELLY DONUTS
As nineteenth-century celebrity chef F. G. Zenker explained in his 1824 cookbook Der Zuckerbäcker Für Frauen Mittlerer Stände (Confectionery for Middle Class Ladies) ,lightness
is everything. Viennese Carnival donuts must be so ethereal that they do not sink more than
halfway into the hot lard; this is how they receive the characteristic pale ring around their
middles. There used to be a time when you would find these only for Carnival (Fasching), but
these days, every bakery and café has them year-round. The most traditional filling is apricot
preserves, but there is no reason that you can’t use raspberry, strawberry, or any other flavor you
choose. Lemon curd, for example, is one of my favorites.
Makes 20 jelly donuts
½ ounce (2 envelopes) active dry yeast
2 cups plus 2 tablespoons lukewarm milk (about 105°F), divided
1¾ ounces (about 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon) sugar, divided
2 pounds 3 ounces (about 8 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour (plus a handful more to roll out dough)
6 large egg yolks
3½ ounces (7 tablespoons) unsalted butter, melted and cooled Large pinch of salt
½ cup apricot preserves
About 2 tablespoons melted butter to brush with
Oil or shortening for frying
Confectioners’ sugar
1. In a small bowl, combine the yeast, ¼ cup warmed milk, and 1 teaspoon sugar. Stir to dissolve. Stir in 2 ounces (about ½ cup)
flour. Cover this “sponge” with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place until doubled in volume, about 20 minutes.
2. In a separate bowl, whisk the yolks until frothy. Gradually, whisk in the melted butter.
3. Transfer the risen sponge to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. On medium-low speed, beat in the
egg mixture, the remainder of the milk and sugar, then about half the flour. Switch to a dough hook attachment, gradually add
the remaining flour and, finally, the salt. Beat on medium-low speed until the dough is smooth, shiny, and elastic, about 5
minutes.
4. Remove the dough from the bowl and set on a floured surface. Knead very briefly to turn it into a ball. Set in a buttered
bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm place until doubled in volume, about 45 minutes.
5. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough on a floured surface until it is a little less than ¼-inch thick. Then, using a 2¼-inch-diameter
cookie or biscuit cutter, cut out as many circles as you can. Gather up the scraps and roll out the dough one more time,
cutting out more circles. This is easier if you let gathered-up scraps rest for 5 minutes before re rolling.
6. Brush the edge of each round with a little water. Spread every other circle with about a scant teaspoon of preserves to
within ½ inch of the edge. Top each with a plain circle, making sure the moistened edges touch. Press the edges lightly to
help the dough adhere. Using a 2-inch cookie or biscuit cutter dipped in flour, cut out each donut once more, discarding the
trimmings.
7. Brush these lightly with melted butter on each side. Set on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and cover loosely with
plastic wrap. Let rise until they are about 50 percent larger—any more than that, and they will expand too much during
frying.
8. Heat at least 2 inches of oil or shortening in a deep pan to 350°F. If you’re not using a deep fryer with a built-in thermostat,
check the temperature using a candy or deep-fry thermometer. (See Frying Tips, p. 92.) Slide in the donuts, one by one,
making sure not to crowd the pan. Fry until the underside is light brown, about 1½ minutes. Turn the donut and cook until the
other side is brown, about 1 minute. There should be a pale “collar” around the middle of the donut where it floated above the
fat.
9. With a slotted spoon, lift out the cooked donuts and drain on a cooling rack set above a baking pan or on paper towels. Dust
with confectioners’ sugar just before serving
halfway into the hot lard; this is how they receive the characteristic pale ring around their
middles. There used to be a time when you would find these only for Carnival (Fasching), but
these days, every bakery and café has them year-round. The most traditional filling is apricot
preserves, but there is no reason that you can’t use raspberry, strawberry, or any other flavor you
choose. Lemon curd, for example, is one of my favorites.
Makes 20 jelly donuts
½ ounce (2 envelopes) active dry yeast
2 cups plus 2 tablespoons lukewarm milk (about 105°F), divided
1¾ ounces (about 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon) sugar, divided
2 pounds 3 ounces (about 8 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour (plus a handful more to roll out dough)
6 large egg yolks
3½ ounces (7 tablespoons) unsalted butter, melted and cooled Large pinch of salt
½ cup apricot preserves
About 2 tablespoons melted butter to brush with
Oil or shortening for frying
Confectioners’ sugar
1. In a small bowl, combine the yeast, ¼ cup warmed milk, and 1 teaspoon sugar. Stir to dissolve. Stir in 2 ounces (about ½ cup)
flour. Cover this “sponge” with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place until doubled in volume, about 20 minutes.
2. In a separate bowl, whisk the yolks until frothy. Gradually, whisk in the melted butter.
3. Transfer the risen sponge to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. On medium-low speed, beat in the
egg mixture, the remainder of the milk and sugar, then about half the flour. Switch to a dough hook attachment, gradually add
the remaining flour and, finally, the salt. Beat on medium-low speed until the dough is smooth, shiny, and elastic, about 5
minutes.
4. Remove the dough from the bowl and set on a floured surface. Knead very briefly to turn it into a ball. Set in a buttered
bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm place until doubled in volume, about 45 minutes.
5. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough on a floured surface until it is a little less than ¼-inch thick. Then, using a 2¼-inch-diameter
cookie or biscuit cutter, cut out as many circles as you can. Gather up the scraps and roll out the dough one more time,
cutting out more circles. This is easier if you let gathered-up scraps rest for 5 minutes before re rolling.
6. Brush the edge of each round with a little water. Spread every other circle with about a scant teaspoon of preserves to
within ½ inch of the edge. Top each with a plain circle, making sure the moistened edges touch. Press the edges lightly to
help the dough adhere. Using a 2-inch cookie or biscuit cutter dipped in flour, cut out each donut once more, discarding the
trimmings.
7. Brush these lightly with melted butter on each side. Set on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and cover loosely with
plastic wrap. Let rise until they are about 50 percent larger—any more than that, and they will expand too much during
frying.
8. Heat at least 2 inches of oil or shortening in a deep pan to 350°F. If you’re not using a deep fryer with a built-in thermostat,
check the temperature using a candy or deep-fry thermometer. (See Frying Tips, p. 92.) Slide in the donuts, one by one,
making sure not to crowd the pan. Fry until the underside is light brown, about 1½ minutes. Turn the donut and cook until the
other side is brown, about 1 minute. There should be a pale “collar” around the middle of the donut where it floated above the
fat.
9. With a slotted spoon, lift out the cooked donuts and drain on a cooling rack set above a baking pan or on paper towels. Dust
with confectioners’ sugar just before serving
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